April 7, 2009
We all seem to be adapting rather well to island time. We had a leisurely breakfast and then headed out for a day of sailing/snorkeling/exploring.

Adam and I looked into dive shops the day before. We found one that was close to our hotel and had reasonable prices. The name of the shop was Bottom Time, in reference to diving, and I guess how much time you could spend on the bottom. The lady who owned the shop was a good reference for facts about Ambergris. She was originally from Australia, but had spent the past 15 years on the island.

The day started out a bit cloudy and there was a stiff breeze blowing in from the ocean. All of us are from up north where it is typically cool. The only difference is at home we usually don't run around in a swim suit, and I have never swam in any of the water in Alaska. So while we are "Tough Alaskans", I was wrapped up in my towel against the cold. The charter we had booked for the day included two snorkel stops, a boat ride on a catamaran sailboat, a lunch stop on the neighboring island, Caye Caulker, plus all of the rum punch or
Belikin Beer we could drink. It was going to be a
great day!
The captain of the vessel was very cool. There was another U.S. couple on board, from somewhere in Washington, who had also signed up for the days charter. They were friendly enough, but the lady's constant talking, and bantering with the captain was grating, and her caviler attitude was the kind of personality that gives Americans a bad name. The captain was good at dishing out the jabs as they were served, but you could see him and the crew roll their eyes every time she said something off key. They were fine for the day, but we made sure not to talk too much about what our plans were for the rest of the week, for fear of them wanting to join in on our activities. Another day of that would be more than any of us could take.

Our first stop was
Hol Chan Marine Park.
The Fish are fed here and not afraid of you. Close encounters are the norm. There's a variety of fish....to many species to list. You can expect to see large Groupers, Snappers, perhaps Eagle Rays, multitudes of small beautifully colored fish. Hol Chan is a natural break in the reef and as result attracts a wide variety of marine life. 
The water was a bit cool getting in. I didn't bring my wet suit on this excursion, I really
didn't need it, but I made a mental note to bring it on the next days dive. The corals here were really cool. There were hundreds of fish, all different colors and sizes. The experience really reminded me of swimming in a salt water aquarium. I took my underwater camera that Renee had bought at
Walmart a few months earlier. It took great pictures, but the pictures don't do the reef justice.
Tracy had never been in the open water with her gear, but she was swimming like a pro. Because
Hol Chan is a marine park, we were instructed to stay close to the snorkel guide. There were quite a few boats moored at this location, each with their own herd of snorkelers. One had to remember what the people in the group looked like, as to not get mixed in with a separate tour. Everyone kind of looks the same with a mask and snorkel on, so I would pick out different colored fins or swimsuits. Our guide did a great job of pointing out the many corals of the park, and had a wealth of knowledge of the different fish and formations we were drifting over. The tour took about 30 minutes. I was really comfortable being in the water, as the temp was warmer than the air. Getting out and onto the boat was a bit chilly. The air temp was in the high 70's, but the stiff 25 knot wind made it feel much cooler.

Our next stop was Shark Ray Alley. It of course gets its name from having a lot of sharks and eagle rays near by. This stop was really awesome. It wasn't what I was expecting though. As we were pulling the boat to the mooring ball, I noticed the deck hand throw something overboard. The "thing" was a PVC pipe attached to a rope. In the PVC pipe was bait. To bait the sharks! I imagined, when we were read the description of the trip the day before in the relative comfort of the dive shop, that we would snorkel around the reef and possible see a shark or two, maybe a ray . . . from a distance! This was not the case however, as I was looking over the stern of the boat, I could see at least seven sharks and at least that many rays in a feeding frenzy around the
pvc pipe that was full of bait. Next thing I know, the captain says, "alright, get in the water, pools open". Needless to say, I was not the first one in. I guess I have always heard that when you see a shark, you are suppose to get
out of the water.

I got in reluctantly, after a minute or so. I didn't see any tell tail red streak in the water, and no one was screaming. But the old saying "If all of you friends were jumping off a bridge, would you jump too?" did come to mind. The sharks, while in the five to six foot range were a bit intimidating, I was told that they were nurse sharks and relatively harmless. After all the dive shops wouldn't knowingly put tourists in harms way right? right?

Well, after a while I got bold. I swam down and grabbed one of the sharks by the tail. I had seen someone else do it, and they still had both of their arms, so what the hey. The skin of the shark was rough like sandpaper. I swam down several more times so I could have the moment documented on film forever. Renee did a great job of capturing me grabbing a shark on film, so I could share this picture with the kids, gaining their respect. It is not
too hard being a super hero for a four year old, but I knew that a picture of "Dad grabbing a shark" would put me up there with the Power Rangers, and Spider man!

We spent about 20 minutes in the water at Shark/Rey Alley. By the time we got out of the water, the clouds were already beginning to clear. It was turning out to be a nice day. We had about a hour and a half boat ride ahead of us to get to Caye Caulker. No one was allowed to drink anything alcoholic during snorkeling time, but now that the snorkeling part of the trip was over, the bar was open!
The trip to Caye Caulker was relaxing and fun. The captain held our attention with stories from past trips. We enjoyed lounging on the deck, while drinking rum punch. The seas were calming and the wind was dying. By the time we docked in Caye Caulker, the sun was fully out and it again was 85 deg. Our first stop was lunch in a little restaurant that overlooked the water. I had some good snapper(fish) there. After lunch we had about an hour and a half to kill before the boat left to go back to San Pedro, so we thought that we might explore the "downtown" section of this tiny island.

This is a new building being constructed in "downtown" Caye Caulker. Notice the large sticks between floors acting as support members as the concrete dries. We saw this in multiple buildings in both San Pedro and Caye Caulker. It works I guess, but I don't think that we will see this method of constructing a building in the U.S. anytime soon.

One of the local watering holes had this "weather station" posted outside of its patio bar.

Caye Caulker was definitely much quieter than San Pedro . . . maybe a bit
too quiet. If you really want to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, and need quiet to relax, then Caye Caulker is the place for you. I honestly don't mind the little bit of noise and activity that is found in many of the places we have visited. I guess I am just too used to the two kids in a constant state of motion. It is rarely quiet at our house, and on those rare occasions when it is quiet, it means that the kids are up to something.

We had a great sail on the way back. Almost everyone spent time on the fore deck of the sailboat. The "trampoline" between the pontoons was a nice place to spend time. I fell asleep in one of the cabins below deck for about a half an hour. Being on the water and in the sun always makes me feel sleepy. I still woke up with plenty of time to enjoy a few more rum punches before getting back to the hotel.

The trampoline on the sailboat is my new "happy place". It really doesn't get any better than this.
Three of us posed for a picture while the captain took our picture. Kind of reminiscent of our sailboat that we owned in Houston.

This boat is kind of a sad story. This luxury yacht, owned by one of the worlds richest men, dropped anchor on the reef after experiencing engine trouble. The anchors ripped through a large area of the reef before coming to a stand still, however a constant northeasterly wind kept moving the vessel moving in different locations causing further damage. Preliminary assessment done by officers from the Fisheries Department found that the damaged area measured forty five by twenty five feet and because the damage was done by an anchor at least thirty five percent of the corals in that area was damaged. This is sad because much of the damage on the reef is permanent. It takes hundreds of years for the reef to heal. The reef is currently a world heritage site and
thereby protected. The week before our visit, representatives of UNESCO were in the country conducting a survey on the World Heritage Site and concluded that Belize could lose its world heritage status for not taking care of its Great Barrier Reef. This would hurt tourism and ultimately hurt the overall status of this really cool ecosystem.

We got back to the room after a full day, and decided to try the captain's "secret recipe" for rum punch. We had made a batch of punch the day before, but it seemed flat and too rummy. The secret, we were told was to add a sprite and fizzy orange drink into the mix. This "secret" was the ingredient we needed, but we had to be careful not to drink too much of this delicious beverage.

Cheers. We decided to dine in on this particular evening. Our rooms included a kitchenette, so it was nice to take advantage of it. We had some leftovers from the night before, and we supplemented this with some things we had picked up from the store. It was very relaxing eating in. Besides, we had a new batch of punch to try out!
Dining in paradise. The cuisine consisted of Ramon soup, rum punch, Pretzel Crisps and left over pizza. I love this picture because it shows Tracy just going to town on her Ramon Noodles.
Very fun day in paradise. We had to be to bed early and get our rest. Adam and I were headed out early the next day for some scuba diving along the reef, and the girls were going to go to town and do some shopping. Time is sure flying!!! Lights out