Thursday, April 16, 2009

Leaving Paradise

April 10, 2009

Living in Paradise cannot go on forever. Eventually one must get back to reality and back to work. We had our usual hotel breakfast and loaded up our bags for the long trip ahead of us . . . back to the cold.

Adam and Tracy were staying an extra day on Ambergris Caye. The Easter Holiday weekend was starting later in the afternoon and with it comes a lot of traffic from the mainland. They were a bit unsure what the increased level of activity on the island was going to mean, but they were soon to find out. I checked in with them a few days later and they said that while it was quite a bit louder at the hotel, everyone had fun, and the festivities were actually fun to see. Adam said that the drink specials were better for the holiday too. He also said something about a wet t-shirt contest . . . hhhmmmm?!?
We left as we came in. Sunny skies and 80 degrees, just another day in the tropics. The pilot had to slam on the brakes on the runway to avoid a flock of seagulls, but other than that, the short flight was fine.
Now that we were a bit more familiar with the island, it was fun to fly over the town and see some of the areas we had visited from the air. The reef looked very inviting from 5000 ft.


It was actually good to be on our way back home. We missed the kids and were anxious to get back to a routine. Spring was on its way in Alaska and we didn't want to miss it!

We had an uneventful flight from Belize City to Dallas. We did our homework this time and found a very nice hotel, close to the airport, and around $20 cheaper than what we paid on the way down for the dumpy hotel . PriceLine.com was really helpful in finding us the deal. Now that I am familiar with the process, I will use it more often.
We were up early the next morning to load onto the shuttle at 6am for a 8am departure. Next stop Seattle. There were no interruptions in our flight this time. Everything went smoothly. From Seattle we had another short (3 hr) flight to Anchorage. We arrived in Anchorage tired but on time. It was good to be home. We had an incredibly relaxing vacation, a few bumps here and there, but overall a huge success. My overall impression of Belize was positive, but Renee and I both agreed that for future beach trips Hawaii may be a better destination. Hawaii offers many of the same activities we enjoyed in Belize (diving, snorkeling, sailing, and hanging out at the beach), but would be a much shorter and cheaper flight from Anchorage (six hour non-stop). Flights are a big consideration when planning travel with kids. They can only sit still for so long, and the whining puts a strain on the vacation when it reaches a certain level for an extended period of time.

Ambergris Day Five

April 9, 2009
    
    Another sunny day.  Ambergris really promotes activities on the water, so we thought that we would do another half day of snorkeling.  Same drill as before.  Get up, have breakfast at the hotel, walk to the dive shop, boat picks up at 9:00.  Now why are we going back home?

Nice shot of all four of us on the dive shop dock.  

We did two snorkels during our half day trip.  The first stop was Mexico rocks.  The ride to the site took 20 minutes by boat.  It was kind of cool to see the northern part of Ambergris.  We had not explored any of that part of the island.  There is a bridge going from San Pedro to the northern part, and we didn't want to pay the $10 to see what was on the other side.  Although the reef is not as magnificent as the barrier, the scattered coral heads are still impressive.  The entire site is only eight to ten feet deep, with some of the coral actually poking out of the water.  The visibility was great (100+) and the water temp was warm, although I again brought my shorty wetsuit and was not sorry.  The scuba guide was good, but certainly not a character like our first snorkel guide.   

There was one lone person on the boat who I think initially wanted to go snorkeling, but just didn't feel that comfortable in the water.  He had to sit out the two snorkels, and got a fair amount of grief from his friends.  

I really liked the brain corals.  The reefs in Belize looked like the stereotypical reefs that you see on TV or in the movies.  They were really beautiful.  Most of the area is protected, the locals have a vested interest in keeping them nice since people spend a lot of money to see them.  

There was not really a lot of dead coral.  I am usually a big picture kind of person when I am diving or snorkeling.  I usually don't stop to pick out the tiny details of the area, and instead just explore around and take it all in.  The two sites that we visited were compact enough that I could get a bit behind and really focus on one particular area.  It was neat to see the fish that lived in the individual coral.  There were several forms of sea anemone that when you waved your hand in front of it, it would retract into this tube.  Weird.

This sand dollar was as big as a dinner plate.  I wanted to keep it but decided to leave it for the next person to see.  Take only photographs!

Here is one of the blue little fish living in the coral that I mentioned earlier.  They did not seem too concerned that a bunch of humans were hovering around looking and taking pictures of them.  At the second snorkel site on the way back to the boat, we passed pretty close to a small jelly fish.  I asked the dive master about it once on the boat, and he informed us that while it was small (size of a film canister), is still packed a wallop if you touched any of its trailing tentacles.  I am actually glad that the dive master pointed it out.  It was hard to see because it was small and clear.  That would not be good to be going along and all of a sudden have an arm or leg burst swell up in pain.  You wouldn't even know what hit you.

We went back to the hotel and read books by the pool.  Tracy needed to go into town for something, so she decided to walk (I think she forgot how far it was to town).  When she got back we all got motivated and decided to rent another golf cart for a couple of hours.  There were a few things that we all needed in town.  Dinner was one of them and Cuban cigars were the other. 

We decided to eat in the room again.  The room was great.  It had a nice view, fridge, stove, table, and we didn't have to tip the waiter.  After a while we all kind of got tired of eating out.  Anyway we took the cart to the big grocery store in this part of San Pedro.  While it was not like the ginormous stores that you have in the states, this place had it all.  It was big, modern and had the same "stuff" found in our stores back home.  We picked up a couple pizzas, some snacks for the plane, and of course our Cuban cigars.  

Now, I was driving the cart and actually picked it out in the lot.  We had a key for cart 102.  Well, when I was looking for the cart I found . . . cart 102.  And then we drove off in . . . cart 102.  We returned to the hotel after runner our errands and saw a few people milling about the lot.  As we parked the cart they approached and asked to see our key.  Here it is . . . #102, what seems to be the problem?  Well, the problem was that I had rented the cart from Choloe's cart rental and the cart I had taken was from another vendor.  So for the past two hours we had been driving around in a stolen golf cart.  Apparently the keys to the vehicle are for show only.  Any key will start any vehicle. The people were actually pretty cool about the whole mix up.  They had only been searching for their vehicle for five minutes.  It all got sorted out and they were on their way.  We even got this picture to prove that our joyride in a stolen cart in Belize actually happened.

Ambergris Day Four

April 8, 2009

We awoke to sunny skies and calm seas, a perfect day to go diving on the reef.  Adam and I scheduled a two tank dive for in the morning.  The seas always seemed to be better in the morning, when we got back, we would still have half a day to do stuff on shore.

The dive shop was a pleasant 5 minute walk from our hotel.  The resort next door to ours had a most excellent beach.  Workers were out there every morning raking the beach of debris that had accumulated there over night.

Adam and I had brought our own mask, fins and snorkel, so all we needed to rent was a BCD and regulator.  Adam and I last dived together in Washington along the Hood Canal.  There we needed full 7mm wetsuits.  The water was considerably much warmer here, so we could get away with our shorty wetsuits.

The boat came to pick us up promptly at 9:00.  There were about seven other divers and two dive masters going along with us for the dive.

Pools open!  My underwater camera is only rated at 10 meters (30ft.) so I wasn't able to bring it on this dive.  Our deepest dive was only going to be around 80 feet, but that was well beyond the limit of my camera.  One of the other people on the dive had the exact same camera, and informed us that he had actually found it the day before in around 70 feet of water.  Some other unlucky diver must have dropped it.  He was taking his camera on the dive, but it was free to him, so he had little to loose.  I asked him how the camera preformed after the first dive and he said that it didn't leak.  Oh well, I know for next time that I can push it a bit on the camera.

The first dive went well.  We dove on a part of the reef called tackle box.  I have been having trouble with my ears, and actually have a tube in one of them at the moment.  I am not exactly suppose to dive . . . but I found a mask that had ear cups that are suppose to keep water from getting in your ear.  It worked relatively well, although I still had trouble equalizing.  I got down to about 50 feet and did not think it wise to go any deeper.  I hovered 40 feet above the rest of the group as they explored the bottom near the reef.  The visibility was excellent, I would say at least 100 ft., and the wetsuits did a good job of keeping me warm.  The water was around 78 degrees.  There were two things good about not going deep on the dive, well three if you count my ears not having too much trouble.  One, was that I did not burn trough my air.  By staying shallow, I had much more air at the end of the dive than everyone else.  I probably could have stayed down another 10-15 minutes.  But the second thing, and certainly the best thing about staying shallow was that the instructor spotted a sea turtle from where he was on the bottom, and it just happened to be about 15 feet from where I was.  No one on the bottom was able to ascend to that level fast enough, so I had my own private show withe the turtle.  He reminded me of the turtle on Finding Nemo.  We surfaced after about 40 minutes on the bottom and hopped into the dive boat waiting just a few yards from where we surfaced.  Adam and I were up first, he had burned through his air and had just a few hundred psi left.  The boat was rolling pretty good in the 3-4 foot swells we were experiencing on the outside of the reef.  It was nice to have a few extra minutes to get aboard the boat, we didn't have to deal with a line of divers waiting to get out of the water.  


After the first dive we went to shore to have a quick bite to eat and get the tanks switched out for full ones.  The dive shop provided watermelon and some other assorted fruit, sodas and water.  The watermelon tasted awesome.  It was hot out and the compressed air you breath while diving really dries out your throat.  

We headed back out after an hour on shore.  Due to the trouble I was having with my ears, I decided to sit the second dive out.  I hung out on the boat with the driver, and just enjoyed spending time on the water.  It kind of reminded me of Texas and spending time sailing in Galveston Bay.  Of course in Belize the water is blue and clear, not murky and brown.  From the dive boat I could easily see 100 feet below the water to the bottom.  

Adam went down with the rest of the group and had a great dive.  They were down around 45 minutes.  This dive was right around the same spot the luxury yacht had dragged anchor on the day before.  Adam didn't notice the damage, but the boat operator told me that the dive master wanted to see the damage for himself.  Such a beautiful place to have an unfortunate accident.

After the dive we headed back to the hotel and sat by the pool.  I was having no trouble adapting to this lifestyle.  We all went back up to the room, sat on the porch overlooking the ocean and enjoyed some more of our excellent rum punch. 

That night we walked to a nice restaurant near our hotel.  The restaurant is called the Secret Garden.  It must have been pretty well hidden because we were the only ones there. We had good service and the food was great.  Everything in Belize seems to be made out of some sort of exotic hardwood.  This place was no exception.  It was an open restaurant, so we were able to feel the breeze and enjoy our food in the outdoors.  Although this place was in the middle of a residential neighborhood, it felt like you were in the middle of the jungle.


I think that I had some sort of fish for dinner.  I ate a lot of fish while in Belize, I figured it would be the freshest thing on the menu, and something I wouldn't be able to get back home.  We have a lot of seafood in Alaska too, but it consists mainly of salmon, halibut or king crab.  Not too shabby mind you, but it is always nice to try the local cuisine.


We were running low on rum punch back at the room so we had to make a brief stop at one of the corner grocery stores on the way back to the hotel.  Two days earlier we had made the mistake of buying a few groceries near San Pedro and had to carry two big bags of supplies about a mile back to the room.  This store was only a few blocks away, so we stocked up the kitchen for another dinner in the room.  Food was pretty expensive, as I imagine everything had to be flown in.  The day before, I had a craving for double stuffed oreos.  The privilege of eating oreos in paradise cost me seven bucks.  Ouch. It was funny though, the rum only cost about four dollars.  Well that settles that.  More rum, less oreos.

Tomorrow was another day on the water, so we didn't stay up too late.  The weather forecast had more sunny skies in store for us.  Life was good and we were definitely making the most of the week.  

Ambergris Day Three

April 7, 2009

We all seem to be adapting rather well to island time. We had a leisurely breakfast and then headed out for a day of sailing/snorkeling/exploring.


Adam and I looked into dive shops the day before. We found one that was close to our hotel and had reasonable prices. The name of the shop was Bottom Time, in reference to diving, and I guess how much time you could spend on the bottom. The lady who owned the shop was a good reference for facts about Ambergris. She was originally from Australia, but had spent the past 15 years on the island.

The day started out a bit cloudy and there was a stiff breeze blowing in from the ocean. All of us are from up north where it is typically cool. The only difference is at home we usually don't run around in a swim suit, and I have never swam in any of the water in Alaska. So while we are "Tough Alaskans", I was wrapped up in my towel against the cold. The charter we had booked for the day included two snorkel stops, a boat ride on a catamaran sailboat, a lunch stop on the neighboring island, Caye Caulker, plus all of the rum punch or Belikin Beer we could drink. It was going to be a great day!

The captain of the vessel was very cool. There was another U.S. couple on board, from somewhere in Washington, who had also signed up for the days charter. They were friendly enough, but the lady's constant talking, and bantering with the captain was grating, and her caviler attitude was the kind of personality that gives Americans a bad name. The captain was good at dishing out the jabs as they were served, but you could see him and the crew roll their eyes every time she said something off key. They were fine for the day, but we made sure not to talk too much about what our plans were for the rest of the week, for fear of them wanting to join in on our activities. Another day of that would be more than any of us could take.

Our first stop was Hol Chan Marine Park. The Fish are fed here and not afraid of you. Close encounters are the norm. There's a variety of fish....to many species to list. You can expect to see large Groupers, Snappers, perhaps Eagle Rays, multitudes of small beautifully colored fish. Hol Chan is a natural break in the reef and as result attracts a wide variety of marine life.
The water was a bit cool getting in. I didn't bring my wet suit on this excursion, I really didn't need it, but I made a mental note to bring it on the next days dive. The corals here were really cool. There were hundreds of fish, all different colors and sizes. The experience really reminded me of swimming in a salt water aquarium. I took my underwater camera that Renee had bought at Walmart a few months earlier. It took great pictures, but the pictures don't do the reef justice.

Tracy had never been in the open water with her gear, but she was swimming like a pro. Because Hol Chan is a marine park, we were instructed to stay close to the snorkel guide. There were quite a few boats moored at this location, each with their own herd of snorkelers. One had to remember what the people in the group looked like, as to not get mixed in with a separate tour. Everyone kind of looks the same with a mask and snorkel on, so I would pick out different colored fins or swimsuits. Our guide did a great job of pointing out the many corals of the park, and had a wealth of knowledge of the different fish and formations we were drifting over. The tour took about 30 minutes. I was really comfortable being in the water, as the temp was warmer than the air. Getting out and onto the boat was a bit chilly. The air temp was in the high 70's, but the stiff 25 knot wind made it feel much cooler.

Our next stop was Shark Ray Alley. It of course gets its name from having a lot of sharks and eagle rays near by. This stop was really awesome. It wasn't what I was expecting though. As we were pulling the boat to the mooring ball, I noticed the deck hand throw something overboard. The "thing" was a PVC pipe attached to a rope. In the PVC pipe was bait. To bait the sharks! I imagined, when we were read the description of the trip the day before in the relative comfort of the dive shop, that we would snorkel around the reef and possible see a shark or two, maybe a ray . . . from a distance! This was not the case however, as I was looking over the stern of the boat, I could see at least seven sharks and at least that many rays in a feeding frenzy around the pvc pipe that was full of bait. Next thing I know, the captain says, "alright, get in the water, pools open". Needless to say, I was not the first one in. I guess I have always heard that when you see a shark, you are suppose to get out of the water.

I got in reluctantly, after a minute or so. I didn't see any tell tail red streak in the water, and no one was screaming. But the old saying "If all of you friends were jumping off a bridge, would you jump too?" did come to mind. The sharks, while in the five to six foot range were a bit intimidating, I was told that they were nurse sharks and relatively harmless. After all the dive shops wouldn't knowingly put tourists in harms way right? right?

Well, after a while I got bold. I swam down and grabbed one of the sharks by the tail. I had seen someone else do it, and they still had both of their arms, so what the hey. The skin of the shark was rough like sandpaper. I swam down several more times so I could have the moment documented on film forever. Renee did a great job of capturing me grabbing a shark on film, so I could share this picture with the kids, gaining their respect. It is not too hard being a super hero for a four year old, but I knew that a picture of "Dad grabbing a shark" would put me up there with the Power Rangers, and Spider man!

We spent about 20 minutes in the water at Shark/Rey Alley. By the time we got out of the water, the clouds were already beginning to clear. It was turning out to be a nice day. We had about a hour and a half boat ride ahead of us to get to Caye Caulker. No one was allowed to drink anything alcoholic during snorkeling time, but now that the snorkeling part of the trip was over, the bar was open!

The trip to Caye Caulker was relaxing and fun. The captain held our attention with stories from past trips. We enjoyed lounging on the deck, while drinking rum punch. The seas were calming and the wind was dying. By the time we docked in Caye Caulker, the sun was fully out and it again was 85 deg. Our first stop was lunch in a little restaurant that overlooked the water. I had some good snapper(fish) there. After lunch we had about an hour and a half to kill before the boat left to go back to San Pedro, so we thought that we might explore the "downtown" section of this tiny island.

This is a new building being constructed in "downtown" Caye Caulker. Notice the large sticks between floors acting as support members as the concrete dries. We saw this in multiple buildings in both San Pedro and Caye Caulker. It works I guess, but I don't think that we will see this method of constructing a building in the U.S. anytime soon.

One of the local watering holes had this "weather station" posted outside of its patio bar.


Caye Caulker was definitely much quieter than San Pedro . . . maybe a bit too quiet. If you really want to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, and need quiet to relax, then Caye Caulker is the place for you. I honestly don't mind the little bit of noise and activity that is found in many of the places we have visited. I guess I am just too used to the two kids in a constant state of motion. It is rarely quiet at our house, and on those rare occasions when it is quiet, it means that the kids are up to something.

We had a great sail on the way back. Almost everyone spent time on the fore deck of the sailboat. The "trampoline" between the pontoons was a nice place to spend time. I fell asleep in one of the cabins below deck for about a half an hour. Being on the water and in the sun always makes me feel sleepy. I still woke up with plenty of time to enjoy a few more rum punches before getting back to the hotel.

The trampoline on the sailboat is my new "happy place". It really doesn't get any better than this.

Three of us posed for a picture while the captain took our picture. Kind of reminiscent of our sailboat that we owned in Houston.

This boat is kind of a sad story. This luxury yacht, owned by one of the worlds richest men, dropped anchor on the reef after experiencing engine trouble. The anchors ripped through a large area of the reef before coming to a stand still, however a constant northeasterly wind kept moving the vessel moving in different locations causing further damage. Preliminary assessment done by officers from the Fisheries Department found that the damaged area measured forty five by twenty five feet and because the damage was done by an anchor at least thirty five percent of the corals in that area was damaged. This is sad because much of the damage on the reef is permanent. It takes hundreds of years for the reef to heal. The reef is currently a world heritage site and thereby protected. The week before our visit, representatives of UNESCO were in the country conducting a survey on the World Heritage Site and concluded that Belize could lose its world heritage status for not taking care of its Great Barrier Reef. This would hurt tourism and ultimately hurt the overall status of this really cool ecosystem.

We got back to the room after a full day, and decided to try the captain's "secret recipe" for rum punch. We had made a batch of punch the day before, but it seemed flat and too rummy. The secret, we were told was to add a sprite and fizzy orange drink into the mix. This "secret" was the ingredient we needed, but we had to be careful not to drink too much of this delicious beverage.

Cheers. We decided to dine in on this particular evening. Our rooms included a kitchenette, so it was nice to take advantage of it. We had some leftovers from the night before, and we supplemented this with some things we had picked up from the store. It was very relaxing eating in. Besides, we had a new batch of punch to try out!

Dining in paradise. The cuisine consisted of Ramon soup, rum punch, Pretzel Crisps and left over pizza. I love this picture because it shows Tracy just going to town on her Ramon Noodles.

Very fun day in paradise. We had to be to bed early and get our rest. Adam and I were headed out early the next day for some scuba diving along the reef, and the girls were going to go to town and do some shopping. Time is sure flying!!! Lights out

Ambergris Day Two

April 06, 2009

Another sunny day in Belize.  It was hot, but being right on the water, it was never unbearable.  We were quickly adapting to Island time.  We would think about the snow and temperatures in the teens back home and just smile.  Now, why do we live in Alaska again?

It was great waking up late and strolling down to breakfast with Tracy and Adam.  No kids to take to school, no lunches to get made, and no traffic to fight on the way to work, oh yeah, no work, all play!!!

I wish that everyday could start like today.  Perfect weather, sunny and 80 degrees.  Complementary breakfast of cinnamon apple french toast and orange juice.  Followed by lounging by the pool or snorkeling by the reef.  This is a vacation!

The four of us decided to explore a bit of the island and do some shopping.  What better way to see San Pedro than in a golf cart.  Besides the Toyota mini van taxis, the only thing on the road were these golf carts.  I have never driven one, but it took two seconds to get used to it.  The only thing weird about a golf cart is that the engine turns off when you stop at a stop sign.  Then when you push your foot on the gas, it starts up again.  It probably has something to do with how they would be used on a golf course, their primary purpose, but they were also perfectly suited to life in Belize.

Ambergris Caye is 25 miles long and only about a mile wide in some places.  We didn't go merely that far, at best we went maybe 5 miles.  I got to drive which was fun.  It was a bit unnerving sharing the road with taxi cabs that can travel much faster than the cart, plus I had the luxury of not one but two back seat drivers.  We quickly got in the grove and had a blast driving around.  San Pedro is still a bit sleepy in my opinion.  Eventually the island will change and probably be a bit more touristy.  It will loose some of it's charm at that point for sure.  Much of the island a few blocks away is very, what is the word, raw??  I am sure that most of the world is more like San Pedro.  We are just spoiled in the US, or maybe brainwashed, about our standard of living and what we are comfortable with for an environment.  I am not saying that San Pedro was bad or scummy, it was just very different from walking around a neighborhood in Anchorage, or Denver or Chicago.  That is the problem with only being able to go on vacation for a week or ten days.  You never really get a chance to get in the rhythm of the place you are visiting.  You always feel like the outsider looking in.   

I really liked this bar/restaurant that we stopped at for lunch.  It was a huge building, and I imagine that it was hopping at night.  I had some excellent fish and chips and of course a margarita to go along with it.  

Here is the Rasta Mon that I bought a wood carving from after lunch.  He told me that he had good prices and that his carvings were totally carved out of one piece of wood unlike the guys down the street that glued their fins on the fish instead.  He was right, I checked out several of the "other guys" carvings and found his to be the best quality.  The fish I bought is a local fish, I forgot what species at the moment, and I though it odd how it sits on the stand sideways.  I asked Rasta Mon about it and he told me he carves it like that because that is how it looks when you pull it in off your fishing line, and how it looks when it is frying in the pan.  Makes sense, I guess.  Anyway, who am I to question the Rasta Mon?!?

Adam, Tracy, Renee and I were scheduled to go snorkeling the next day so Adam and I decided to try out our gear by snorkeling right out front of the hotel.  The water visibility was cloudy and you couldn't really see anything, but it was still cool, because you could walk about 500 yards out from shore and still be only up to your waist in water.  The water was warm too.  It was definitely warmer than the pool!  We snorkeled around for about a half hour and headed back.  Unfortunately, the beach at the hotel had been damaged during hurricane Dean in August, 2007.  Much of the sand from the south side of the islands beaches was simply washed out to sea.  In a few areas of Ambergris Caye large dredges were positioned in the bay to dredge sand from the ocean floor, and pipe it back onto the beaches.  We observed equipment set up for this on one particular beach.  When we inquired about it to one of the locals, we were told that the beach restoration project was started by one on the local politicians trying to get re-elected to office.  Once the election was over, and he was re-elected, the project just kind of became forgotten and the funding dried up.  Too bad.  Big beaches are very nice and certainly a big tourist draw.  

We weren't very creative on night two and decided to eat dinner at the hotel restaurant.  We were able to eat outside on a very clear and warm evening.  The breeze kept the bugs off and us from sweating.  The food at the restaurant was excellent and the portions big.  I am kind of a picky eater, and sometimes don't order off of the menu.  In my opinion it never hurts to ask if a restaurant has a particular item, even if it doesn't appear on the menu.  In this case, my asking paid off.  I didn't see corn as a side dish, and when I asked the waiter, he was not sure if  they had any, but he said that he would go look.  A few minutes later, the waiter came through for me and brought out three ears of corn on the cob.  I don't know how I got a hankering for corn on the cob, but it hit the spot.  So 5 stars for the Banana Beach Resort restaurant.  The waiter did well that night, I left a big tip on account of the corn!